Standard Coating - Automotive Products

NITROSTAN SPOT & GLAZING PUTTY

This nitrocellulose based formula has been used since the 1930's. It is still being used today because of its easy spreading, fast drying and excellent sanding properties. It fills and hides surface blemishes, imperfections, and irregularities that are difficult to hide with primer.

Grey 9000, Red 9001, White 9002

HOW AND WHEN TO USE NITROSTAN SPOT & GLAZING PUTTY

Spot and Glazing putty can be used to repair scratches, nicks, surface rust, small holes and tears, rustouts and dents.

PROCEDURES FOR REPAIRING SCRATCHES: Scratches that are too deep to be buffed out, but do not reach the metal underneath the paint may be filled in with putty. Spot and Glazing putty can eliminate shallow scratches with a minimum of sanding and priming. Spot and Glazing putty is extremely smooth. It fills and hides surface blemishes, imperfections, and irregularities that are difficult to hide with primer. It can be used to fill chips, scratches, and small dents or dings.

Surface Preparation: Wash and clean the repair area with a wax and grease removing solvent. Lightly sand the scratched area with #240 grit sand paper. This sanding will scuff the surface so that the glazing putty will adhere to the old paint. When finished clean the area with a soft cloth and wipe with a tack cloth.

Applying Glazing Putty: Apply a small amount of putty onto a clean rubber contour squeegee. With moderate pressure, spread putty, using a fast scraping motion, over the repair area. Apply in one direction only. DO NOT pass the squeegee over the same area more than once. Multiple passes may pull the putty away from the body.

Allow the putty to dry completely, usually between 20 minutes and 1 hour, depending on temperature and humidity.

Sanding Glazing Putty: Once the putty is dry, sand the area with #240 grit sand paper. Wet sand to prevent putty from clogging the paper and creating more scratches. Wet sanding also produces a smoother finish than dry sanding.

As you sand, rub your hand over the area to feel for high spots on the surface. When finished, rinse the area and wipe it dry. Clean the area with a tack cloth. Inspect the scratch for dips and voids in the putty. It may be necessary to use additional putty. Repeat the procedure as often as needed to produce a area that is free of imperfections. Remember it is best to use several thin layers of putty rather than one thick layer.

After the Spot & Glazing Putty has been sanded to an even level with the surrounding panel, wet sand with #400 sanding block. The sanding block allows even pressure over the area which prevents the formation of low spots in the finish. Sand with light pressure and long strokes. Now it is ready for THE FINISHING PRIMER.

PROCEDURES FOR REPAIRING NICKS: Nicks are caused by minor bumps, scrapes and stones. Nicks differ from scratches in that they exposed the metal beneath the coating. They are repaired similarly to scratches, however, they require sanding and priming before applying the putty. Anytime bare metal is exposed to the air, rust formation must be inhibited with primer before the new finish is applied. A RUST INHIBITING PRIMER is used to protect the bare metal and prevent rusting.

Applying Putty: Apply a small amount of putty onto a clean rubber contour squeegee. With moderate pressure, spread putty, using a fast scraping motion, over the repair area. Apply in one direction only. DO NOT pass the squeegee over the same area more than once. Multiple passes may pull the putty away from the body.

Allow the putty to dry completely, usually between 20 minutes and 1 hour, depending on the temperature and humidity.

Final sanding of the Spot & Glazing Putty is necessary for an ultra smooth finish. Wet sand with #400 grit sandpaper and sanding block. The sanding block allows even pressure over the area which prevents the formation of low spots in the finish. Sand with light pressure and long strokes. Now it is ready for THE FINISHING PRIMER.

PROCEDURES FOR REPAIRING SURFACE RUST: Defects in the finish allow water to seep under the paint and begin to rust the sheet metal underneath. Unless corrected, the rust will continue to eat away at the metal spreading the bubbling paint defects across the surface.

Preparing Surface: Wash the area with a mild detergent and then clean with a wax and grease remover. Apply masking tape to nearby trim to protect it while grinding.

Removing Rust: Remove as much of the rust as possible with a sanding disc drill attachment and #50 grit sandpaper. Follow the recommended safety precautions of the equipment.

Featheredging Finish: When the rust and defective paint are completely removed, the edges of the surrounding old finish must be sanded down to a smooth surface. Start with #80 grit sandpaper. Wet sand again with #240 grit to remove sanding scratches. The area can now be neutralized with a Rust Deactivator. The Rust Deactivator chemically converts rust into a hard, black organic layer. Apply as directed on container.

Priming Surface: After the Rust Deactivator has dried overnight and sanded. Clean the area and wipe with a tack cloth. Mask areas that you do not want painted and apply the RUST INHIBITING PRIMER.

Apply Putty: Apply a small amount of putty onto a clean rubber contour squeegee. With moderate pressure, spread putty, using a fast scraping motion, over the repair area. Apply in one direction only. DO NOT pass the squeegee over the same area more than once. Multiple passes may pull the putty away from the body.

Allow the putty to dry completely, usually between 20 minutes and 1 hour, depending on the temperature and humidity.